Mode op cutting boots and shoes



UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JEREMIAH B. KEEN, OF BRIDGETON, NEW JERSEY.

MODE 0F CUTTING BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 1,178, dated June 21, 1839.

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, JEREMIAH B. KEEN, of Bridgeton, Cumberland county, State of New Jersey, have invented a new and useful Mode of Cutting Boots and Shoes, which is described as follows, reference being had to the annexed drawings of the same, making part of this specification.

The principal feature of this improvementin making boots and shoes consists in cutting the vamp, quarters, and sole in a single piece (instead of several pieces as heretofore) and thereby having` but one seam, the vamp and that at the side, and in cutting a half stiflening to each quarter, which system will enable the maker to eX- tend the cut from a shoe to a boot which will entirely prevent the necessity of crimpmg.

In order clearly to understand my invention and improvement I will lirst draw the patterns of a common vamp, quarters, and sole for making a lace boot, then I will draw the required pattern of the vamp, sole, quarters, and heel stienings in a single piece. As the last used in both systems is the same, it will not be necessary to draw this.

Figures 1, 2, 3, t represent the vamp, quarters, and sole cut on the old plan in separate pieces. No. 1, vamp; No. 2, quarter; No. 3, sole; No. 4L, the other quarter. Fig. 2 represents the pattern of a vamp, quarters, sole, and heel stiening cut in a single piece on the improved plan.

In order to cut this pattern, I take a piece of paper and spread it out. I then take the last on which the shoe or boot is to be made and place it on the paper in the position of the sole, No. 3 in Fig. 1. I then place the vamp No. 1 and quarter No. 2 together as they belong, so that the bottom of the vamp shall touch the ball of the last at K; and the bottom of the quarter the heel at L. Then I place the other quarter, No. 4, of like dimensions on the other side of the last and mark the required pattern off by the last and patterns as they lie, commencing with the last and marking around the fore part from ball to ball; then around the heel in like manner, and then around the vamp and quarters. I then line out a half stiffening, No. 5, at the back of each quarter. I then cut the patterns by these lines, which, when cut will be similar to Fig. 2.

As any Shoemaker will readily understand how the edges are to be sewed together, the soles fitted, &c., it is considered unnecessary to describe how this is to be done.

The cut for the shank gather is represented at E.

This system may be extended to the cutting of boots, ladies slippers, and indeed almost all kinds of boots, shoes, and slippers, and in order further to elucidate the principle of the invention I will refer to another drawing, Fig. 3, the lines of which will be clearly understood by any shoemaker of ordinary comprehension.

The A line represents the cut for a boot in full. B, C, and D the cut for a lace boot. The two lines E the cut for a bootee. F and H lines the cut for a mans slipper. G, H, the lines of a womans slipper. The I lines show where the quarters are sewed together, while the shoe is wrong side out, which will, when turned, bring the stiftening on the inside. The G, H, and K lines the cut of a slipper with straps behind. No. 1 is the vamp, No. 2 a quarter, No. 3 the sole, No. 1 the other quarter, No. 5 the stiliening, No. 6 the boot leg, W inside shank gather, X center shank gather, Y outside shank gather.

All the above kinds of boots and shoes are cut in one piece on the principle before described.

The advantages to be derived from this mode of making boots and shoes are as follows: Time and labor in making them are saved by at least one-third, and yet they are as serviceable as upon the old plan; consequently they can be vended much cheaper and thus a greater profit will be rendered to the maker.

By cutting boots in this manner the necessity of crimping is avoided, which is frequently very difficult to perform, particularly with neat-z and kip leather.

The invention claimed and desired to be secured by Letters Patent consists- In the before describedmode of cutting the uppers and inner sole of boots and shoes in one piece.

Bridgeton, Feb. 27, 1839.

JEREMIAH B. KEEN.

Witnesses:

H. R. MERsErLLEs, JAMns DAVIS, BENJAMIN AYARS. 

